Hangboard Training: The MacLeod Method

Dave MacLeod is one of my biggest inspirations in climbing. The man got his PhD in nutrition to better understand his own body and tune his training to squeeze every bit of performance out of it. Legend.

This hangboard protocol is adapted from a protocol that he published in 2021. I've used it for two years as my go-to protocol for all-around finger strength training. It brought me back from basically nothing after many injuries, and I'm sure you will find use for it as well.

Remember that most of us do not get to train full-time. Prioritize your life overall, but don't forget to allocate intensity to your training. My schedule deals with the fact that I have the equivalent of two full-time jobs, so it includes 2-3 full rest days to ensure I'm rested and recovering well enough to be making incremental improvements. As a non-professional climber, the winter months for me are moreso focused on maintaining (and maybe slightly elevating) my current level so that I can train hard on rock when the weather is nice and motivation has returned.

Here is my current training schedule for reference:

• Sunday: rest / outdoor climbing if seasonally available
• Monday: hangboard morning + core workout evening
• Tuesday: rest (non-climbing activity, zone 2-3, stretching)
• Wednesday: hangboard morning + sport climbing evening
• Thursday: rest (meditate, breathwork, stretching)
• Friday: bouldering / sport climbing depending on season
• Saturday: hangboard morning + sport /outdoor afternoon

Train hard, and be well
-Andrew

Start workout: MacLeod Method rev.2 | HangTime

Recommended schedule: 2-3x weekly, at least 1 day rest between sessions

Total time: 24m excluding pre-hangboard warmup

Pre-hangboard: full body warmup, get the blood flowing

• Finger prep: 2-4m, tendon glides, no-hangs
• Shoulder prep: 2-4m scap retractions, band work

1st SET: WARMUP - jug: dead hang

• Repetitions: 7
• Hang: 10s
• Pause: 30s

Rest: 60s

2nd SET: WARMUP - jug: smooth pull ups

• Repetitions: 2
• Hang: 10s (goal: 5 pull ups)
• Pause: 60s

Rest: 120s

3rd SET: WORK - 20mm: open crimp

• Repetitions: 3
• Hang: 10s
• Pause: 60s

Rest: 60s

4th SET: WORK - 20mm: half crimp

• Repetitions: 3
• Hang: 10s
• Pause: 60s

Rest: 60s

5th SET: WORK - 20mm: three finger open drag

• Repetitions: 3
• Hang: 10s
• Pause: 60s

Rest: 120s

6th SET: COOL DOWN - jug: smooth pull ups

• Repetitions: 2
• Hang: 10s (goal: 5 pull ups)
• Pause: 60s

Rest: 60s

7th SET: COOL DOWN - jug: hang

• Repetitions: 2
• Hang: 10s
• Pause: 60s

COMPLETE